When I was working at the Trib (RIP), I'd go down to Bd. St. Germain with Vince DiLiberto after we put the paper to bed, ca. 11 or 12, and drink rum punches at La Rhumerie. My first encounter with this drink was a revelation because my experience with rum was of the Bacardi variety in a rum and coke. This drink was Rhum Agricole, strong and biting, softened only with a splash of sugar syrup.
La Rhumerie had other drinks, all with that potent raw alcohol bite, and kept tabs on the patrons by serving each on a plastic coaster, color-coded for price, so when it came time to pay, they just tallied up your coasters. Vince and I could while away the time with rum punches and take the Metro or a cab home in the wee hours. After I left the Trib and was working for Institutional Investor, I brought a visiting editor from the magazine to La Rhumerie one night after dinner and he was amazed that the street was still so lively at 11 at night, a time, he said, when New York would be tapering off for the evening.
Sadly, on my last trip back to Paris, a visit to La Rhumerie found it horridly made over. Gone was the funkiness, the plastic coasters. The rum punch was still there but buried in a menu with many fancier drinks.
What brought all this to mind was a tasting this week at Paul's of the Rhum Agricole from Clement in Martinique. When I described the rum punch to the vendor, he said that was a 'Ti Punch, the national drink of Martinique, and proceeded to mix me a small sample with the white rhum and the sugar syrup made by Clement as well. He muddled a piece of lime peel, swizzled the rhum and syrup together, and added ice. Le voila, my rum punch was recreated!
Needless to say, I brought home a bottle of the Premiere Canne, as the white rhum is called, and sugar syrup to make myself a rum punch at home. The Trib and La Rhumerie may just be happy memories, but their spirit lives on.